The 1970’s were a challenging period for the big swiss names in watchmaking. New directions were pursued with electronic watchmaking. There was a serious threat that Seiko and other asian manufacturers would take over the lead position in movement production. The knowledge that mass produced cheap quartz movements might soon take over the market was slowly sinking in. If the traditional swiss watch industry wanted to survive a response was required. In an attempt to dominate this new technology, brands partnered with the CEH (Centre Electronique horloger) to create their first quartz watch. The movement they worked on was internally known as the Beta 21 and launched at the Basel fair of 1970. Some iconic watches to include this technology are the Patek Philippe 3587, the IWC 3501 and the Rolex 5100 nicknamed the Rolex ‘Il Texano’. These watches all have something in common. They are very big, heavy, precious metal wristwatches. They were anything but cheap and stood out from all other watches in older catalogues of these brands. Eventually another big name in watchmaking, Audemars Piguet, would also join the revolution with the Audemars Piguet reference 6001.
One big name we do not see above is Audemars Piguet. They were very cautious moving into this new technology. However, the fear for the future become more real by the day and it was sure something had to be done. Audemars Piguet eventually decided to join this new movement in 1974. They used an Omega adaptation of the Beta 21 movement discussed before. This movement was even more precise than its predecessors and is most well known as the movement powering the Omega Marine chronometer. This movement was known as the megaquartz. With 2,359,296 HZ oscillations, it was accurate to +-5 seconds a month. Audemars Piguet claimed their version was accurate to 1 second a month. A small pusher on the side of the case of the AP 6001 allowed its user to correct for that second. Audemars Piguet rebranded the movement the caliber 2510. At the time of its introduction this level of precision was unheard of, as the norm were mechanical wristwatches that would allow for around 10 seconds deviation per day. This had to be the future.
As we discussed earlier the design language of these new wristwatches was a totally different direction from what we were used to. As the technology was so groundbreaking, the design language had to be equally disruptive. As these early quartz movements were very big, the designs had to account for that. This is why all of the watches mentioned before had unusually large proportions for the era. The Audemars Piguet reference 6001 uses a case that be compared to nothing else the brand has ever done, and yet it feels familiar. The watch has a 35x42mm case that is rounded rectangular octagonal, if that even exists. It is a clear deviation from the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak that was introduced just two years earlier in 1972. However it uses the same petit tapisserie dial as well as the octagonal crown. The dial has a date at the six position, where the logo is also applied. Early versions would say quartz on the dial, while later models do not. The handset and markers are very similar to the royal oak as well. The bracelet is something totally new though with thick horizontally brushed links that integrate the watch to the case as well as possible. The box, which is very rarely seen, repeats the shape of the watch in steel with an exceptional quality suede interior.
The Audemars Piguet 6001 was produced in very limited numbers, it is estimated that the total number is under 350 pieces. Within this production we find several different models. There is the model in stainless steel, which could be considered the most popular example. This model is popular as it fits the trend of this period in time, were stainless steel integrated bracelet watches were just emerging. The most important examples being the Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 3700 and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak reference 5402. This model features the iconic tappisserie dial that makes it stand out from the others. There is some examples in steel to be found with a plain grey dial too.
Then there is an example in yellow gold, that uses a black lacquer dial. This is an impressive sighting as the watch has a lot of weight to it and there is nothing like the feeling of holding a heavy solid gold watch. Especially when in unpolished condition, the design really pops. But as gold is more sensative to wear, some of the gold examples have lost their charm, as the shape is the key element of this design.
Last but not least there are a handful of white gold examples with diamond set dials. These are interesting watches as they are sort of two faced. They are intended as elegant dress watches but with their dimensions that sort of clashes. They are robust, cool and elegant at the same time. There is a lot of beauty in a contradiction like that.
It has taken a while for collectors to come to appreciate watches from this period, which is understandable. What to make of these quirky oversized pieces among their elegant predecessors. They were seen as a curiosity more than anything else. However they form an essential chapter in the development of the swiss watch industry. Now that collectors are diving deeper and deeper into the history of brands these can no longer be overlooked. All the early Beta 21 watches have seen increased interest. Watch collecting offers a view into the past, and what narrative is complete without looking at the quartz crisis? These watches show what brands were doing in a period of great uncertainty about the future. They offer a glimpse of the future as it was imagined in the 1970’s. It is a testament to AP’s willingness to innovate under pressure. It’s a bridge between the old age Geneva watchmaking and whatever was to come next. They have that undeniable 70’s DNA. Did I say enough? If you ad the production numbers to the equation it is no wonder they are getting more and more love. Two important results in public auction are to be found here and here. If you would like to add some history to your collection, have a look at this collector grade Audemars Piguet reference 6001. Below you find some pictures of the gorgeous Audemars Piguet reference 6001 from our collection.
